 |
The
paper templates were customized from those available for download on
Mark Langford's web site. I imported the drawings into
AutoCAD
and then manipulated them to fit my firewall and cockpit dimensions
exactly. By exactly I mean that I reprinted the cockpit
template
because it was 2mm too short in width.
These were then stuck to 12mm chipboard and then cut out with a jigsaw. |
 |
The
templates become the front and rear outlines of the forward deck when
timber sides are added to create a jig and then the foam is added. |
 |
The foam
doesn't need to be 100% free of blemishes as long as those blemishes
will be sanded out during the shaping.
|
 |
Expanding
foam was used lightly to hold the urethane in place enough to sand the
other side. I was careful to not get the expanding foam into
the
joins as it creeps through and makes a smooth sanded urethane surface
almost impossible. |
|
I used the
surform to shave the majority of foam to the templates, finishing off
with a long sand paper straight edge. |
|
A
coat of slurry and then the marker on the plastic shows where the
wetted out piece of carbon fiber will extend 1" beyond the deck shape. |
 |
The
inside deck has worked really well. Perfectly smooth and even
in
texture as I take the time to ensure the peel ply is not allowed to be
dry in any area. I do this by applying pressure and massaging
the
resin through the dry areas with my fingers. |
 |
Grey
tape was added to the template edges as a release for the resin.
It works really well when separating it from the foam though
the
expanding foam needs to be cut free with a razor blade first. |
 |
Here
is what the forward deck looks like when out of the jig. It
is
surprisingly rigid even with only one side covered with CF. |
 |
The
original templates had a 3/8" offset added to the inside to line up the
underside profile. The top profiles have been cut out and
stuck
to chipboard |
 |
This
chipboard is then clamped to either end of the previously molded deck
to provide the sanding profile for the upper surface. |
 |
A little
time spent with the surform and the straight edge and the top of the
deck takes shape. |
 |
Tape
and plastic is applied to all areas that I don't want the resin to
stick to. This includes the sides of the KR2S and templates. |
 |
This
is the area where the filler block sits level with the edge of the top
longeron. As the deck goes to the edge of the 2.5mm plywood,
there is a 2.5mm gap between the filler block and the edge of the deck.
This area has been filled with a piece of sanded urethane. |
 |
The
plastic sheet is peeled off the carbon fiber and fiber glass while it
is still wet, at which stage everything is squeegeed against the foam. |
 |
The peel
ply is held taught with staples and everything is allowed to cure over
night. |