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Two sets of
identical pedals are cut using the mitre saw with a metal cutting blade
attached. The sawdust bag was removed, as it is nylon and would surely
fail the spark collection test. 41oC (106oF) days led
to working without a shirt but I did wear safety glasses. No flying
debris would penetrate those “abs of steel” anyway!
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Each piece
of cut tubing had to be deburred. A metal file did the job and made the
ends smooth and ready for welding. |
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I lined
everything up on some chipboard and used the a few jig blocks to hold
it all in place.
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Here’s
a close up of the angled joins, which I was pretty happy with. |
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Simon is a
LAME (A&P) who spends a lot of his time welding aircraft and
boat components. I am amazed at how quiet TIG welding is as I was
expecting sparks and noise. It is an almost silent operation. In the
interests of safety, I took this photo over my shoulder and just hoped
for the best. |
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The welds
came up a treat and the rudder pedals fitted back onto the jig board
for the trip home meaning there was no noticeable warpage. |
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Before
spraying with a rust inhibitor, I used a wire brush to remove all
surface oxidization that left the pedals very bright and shiny. They
were then hung from some screws that were passed through clamps, ready
to be painted. |
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Simon
was telling me how the tubing on many WW2 aircraft discovered in the
jungles, is found to be severely rusted on the outside but in great
condition on the inside. This is because heated linseed oil was used as
a rust inhibitor by coating the internals. Good enough for
them….good enough for me. Heat, pour in, swish around, pour
out.
A good way to check the welds for leakage too. Mine passed with flying
colours. |
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The
rudder pedals are hinged to the cockpit floor using nylon blocks.
I sourced a 6" piece of 1"x1" nylon and ripped it in half on
the
table saw. |
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The two
halves were then clamped together and 5/8" holes drilled with a spade
bit. |
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I
then cut each hinge from the piece of nylon with the mitre saw and used
the drill press with a 3/16" bit to drill two holes through one side of
the hinge. This is then mated to the other half and used as a
drill guide. |
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The rudder
pedals rest nicely in the hinges and the caps are a perfect match. |
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These
AN3 bolts are fitted in the holes just for show as the proper ones will
be longer and reversed, coming up through the cockpit floor with the
washers and nuts visible on top of the hinges. |
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Couldn't
wait for the bolts to arrive so I drilled the holes through the cockpit
floor and placed short bolts through the nylon blocks just to
see
how good the pedals look. |
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If
you look at the photo above, there is a gap of about 2" between the
sides of the pedals and the fuselage. To re-claim the 2" on
each
side I have had extensions welded onto the pedals. The rudder
cables will then be connected to these giving more leg room.
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I
decided to give the pedals a few coats of gloss white enamel.
I
am no interior decorator but I like the look of the white against the
natural timber and the green nylon blocks. |
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The
holes for the AN42B-10A eyebolts have been drilled so that the eyebolt
is in line with the AN130 turnbuckle assembly and the rudder cable.
I will safety wire the turnbuckles a little later. |
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As
I had envisaged, the cable runs along the fuselage wall without
actually touching it, down to the AN219 phenolic pulley. To
protect the paint I have used black nylon washers with the eyebolts. |
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From
some 4130N offcuts I start to make the tabs that will support
the
bottom of the Matco master cylinders to the pedal near floor level.
This improvised welding clamp worked a treat to stop bending
as
the weld cooled. |
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I
bought a Henrob 2000 welding torch and accessories a while ago
and
have practiced and improved my welding technique to a standard that I
am happy to use in the KR. |
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The
best way for me to work out how I wanted the brake pedal to fit and
look was to fold some cardboard, punch some holes through it and
roughly mark out the shape. |
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I
copied the bend lines off the cardboard onto some 1/8" 6061T6 aluminum
sheet and then set up my own version of a bending brake in the vice.
The picture shows the setup. Ally is bent over
timber's
radiused edge using 4" x 1-1/2" pine as a lever. |
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Here
is how the master cylinder sits in the bottom bracket. There
is
enough room in that square tube for the cylinder to move back and forth
as the brake is applied and released. |
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The
brake pedal is a simple affair that is held in place by an aluminum
sleeve with a screw through it. The action is smooth and I am
very happy with the result. |
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Brake pedals finished but for some lightening holes. |
