rand robinson
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KR2S

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Darren & Hardy's KR2S Project

WAFs


We have decided to manufacture the WAFs (Wing Attachment Fittings) ourselves as we have access to the necessary machinery and the know how to operate it to make precise replicas that are accurate to 0.001mm.  The CNC machine had been moved to its current position and left dormant for a number of years.  We volunteered our time to perform the maintenance needed to get it back up to running condition.  Naturally we needed to test the CNC and what better way than to make the WAFs.
 
transfering data Hardy has written out the code in Microsoft Notepad and is transferring it from the laptop via a data cable to the CNC controller.
controller  The CNC controller steps through the code and orchestrates everything including moving the table about the X and Y axis and the mill about the Z axis.  It takes care of all the tool changes, turns the coolant on and off as required and looks after the feed and spin rates, though these can be adjusted manually while the program runs.
drilling pilot holes It is not just a matter of lining up the points you want to drill then just drill them.  A 0.8mm deep pilot hole is drilled with a 2mm drill bit for every required hole in the 0.125mm 4130N steel.
initial holes A tool change happens, the coolant is then turned on and the lightening holes are started with the same size bit.  The program tells the CNC to take five plunges to drill every hole.  This adds to the machining time but allows the bit and steel to cool enough between plunges and in the flow of the coolant.
enlarge holes Another tool change and the lightening holes are then widened to their final sizes as mill stays stationary and the table moves in increasingly larger circles
3/16th holes The final tool change is for all those holes that the AN3 bolts will pass through.
CNC finished First job is now done as every hole has been machined.  We got every WAF to fit on the piece of 4130N steel but not enough room to machine them out.  We knew this as soon as the sheet arrived but that is OK as it gives us an excuse to use the guillotine at work.  You may see some small pilot holes is this photo.  These are for alignment with the guillotine to accurately cut out the WAFs.
4130N sheet Here's the reverse side of the "work of art" after it has been dried off.  A few of the holes need a very light debur which will be done by hand.

Here is a video of the process.


 






..and a video of the guillotine in action.




 
dowels Find a block of steel that no one will miss, and clean it up.  Might as well make it look nice in the process.  Then mount it on the mill, hard against two 12mm dowels inserted into the table slots.  This provides the reference position needed to align the WAF edges with the table Y axis.  Then clamp it down using my nice new set of clamps I got given by the family for my birthday.
deckel Using the large WAF, set the position of the large hole, so that the smaller holes are still inside the edge of the jig, and the WAF edge sits over the edge and can be cut without cutting into the jig. (Mental note - test the small ones too next time).  Set the verniers on the X and Y axis to zero for future ref.  Drill the holes, starting with a center drill ( a long drill might dance on the surface otherwise), and then add some depth with longer drills.  I did find that the 3/8" drill ate the steel better without the 4mm pilot hole - it didn't chatter as much.  Finish each hole before repositioning - this wouldn't be required if I had digital readouts on the axis, but when positioning by hand on a table with a fair bit of backlash, its easier to position it once and lock it.
machine With the holes drilled, I cleaned up the hole edges with a countersink, and mounted some brackets.  Bolts through the holes in the WAFs fit perfectly into the jig and provide the alignment to cut the edges.  Just need to make sure that the jig is hard against the dowels before tightening the clamps.
acetone Whilst in storage I coated the WAFs with linseed oil to prevent rust beginning.  This oil must be removed prior to applying a rust inhibiting paint.  Acetone does the job really well but care needs to be taken as it is extremely flammable.  Gloves are a must too.  This stuff has a low boiling point and thus evaporates quickly which leaves your hands feeling very cold.
killrust Look at my painting production line.  WAFs are hung on nails and then sprayed with rust inhibitor.
finished paint job Finished and ready to be bolted to the spar ends.